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Key West, Florida (The Conch Republic)
Originally settled by the Calussa Indians, the Spanish conquistadors attempted to take over this prime real estate estate in the Southwestern Keys. The beaches became the burial place of many natives, thus giving the island the name of Bone Island; Cayo Hueso in Spanish. The English anglicized this name to Key West.
John Simonton, an American businessman, bought the island from Juan Pablo Salas and developed it with the help of Greene, Whitehead and Fleming. They encouraged the navy to open a base to fight piracy in the region.
The island flourished as the coral reefs brought many ships to Davy Jones Locker. Many have become millionaires by salvaging the numerous shipwrecks. At one point, the people of Key West became the wealthiest city per capita in the United States.
Henry Morrison Flager, against all odds and better judgment, built a railroad from Homestead to Key West. The first train arrived on January 22, 1912. It connected the mainland with Key West. From Key West, Havana Cuba was only ninety kilometers away. Considered the eighth wonder of the modern world, the Overseas Railway spanned 42 stretches of sea with causeways and bridges, the longest being seven miles. From 1912 to 1935, Key West boomed as a tourist and commercial center. A major class five hurricane destroyed much of the track in 1935. Once again Key West was cut off from the mainland.
The State of Florida purchased the Overseas Railroad right-of-way and turned it into the Overseas Highway in 1938, using the roadbed and bridges built by Henry Flager.
World War II brought new prosperity to the island with the naval base. Ernest Hemmingway and Tennessee Williams resided and visited the island. Cuban tobacco became hand-rolled cigars.
In 1981, the U.S. government set up roadblocks near Key Largo, cutting off Key West’s tourist trade. I don’t really know why it happened. The citizens of Key West have decided to secede. They formed the Conch Republic (pronounced conk). Many still fly the flag today. They demanded billions in reparations and foreign aid. The US government ignored their wishes; but they removed the roadblocks.
Today, Key West thrives primarily on tourism. Arrive by driving the 128 miles along the Overseas Highway on the old railroad bed, or fly into Key West Airport, or take the Key West Express ferry from Marco Island or Ft. Myers Beach . To familiarize yourself with the island, take the Conch Tour Train from 1h30 to 2h. Tickets can be purchased at the Flager Station ticket office or at the Old Town ticket office near Mallory Square. The guided tour covers just about every street in Key West: a great orientation to the island. Other means of transport on the island are electric cars, bicycles, mopeds, taxis and horse-drawn carriages for two. Walking the streets is perhaps the best way to see the island, which is four miles long and one mile wide. Traffic can be a real challenge, especially along US 1, which terminates at Mile 0.
Want action? Duval Street is your goal. Stop and have a beer at Hemingway’s watering hole at Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Restaurant (the original bar is ½ block from Capt. Tony’s Saloon). If your interests lean towards Jimmy Buffet, head to Margaritaville, just four blocks down the street. From top to bottom, Duval’s restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and passers-by draw everyone to the narrow sidewalks. You might even come across one of Key West’s famous chickens wandering down the street.
Other highlights include Hemingway’s House, with guided tours at $12.00 right now. Exterior views are free. Across Whitehead Street stands the old lighthouse and keepers’ quarters. The lighthouse was moved inland to protect it from hurricanes. A few blocks down the street is the Truman White House. President Truman used this resident and the many dependencies during his tenure. Other dignitaries also followed his example: John F. Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, Bill Clinton and Colin Powell. Speaking of President Truman, don’t miss the Margaret Truman Laundromat. Rumor has it that he is named after Margaret Truman, the president’s daughter. Its location is at the corner of Margaret and Truman streets. So his name.
Along Truman Street is the Convent of Our Lady of the Sea. Many survivors of the 1935 hurricane were treated there. The nuns erected a grotto next to the church in honor of Our Lady of Lourdes. As hurricane season approaches, many candles light the cave in prayer to keep Key West free and safe. A marker designates the southernmost point of the continental United States. Tourists love having their picture taken by her.
We had lunch at Pepe’s Restaurant on Caroline Street near Flager Station. This restaurant, established in 1909, offers an abundance of American cuisine. I struggled to finish my open cut meatloaf sandwich.
A trip to Key West means enjoying plenty of water sports: parasailing, jet skis, snorkeling, glass bottom boat rides, deep sea fishing or just relaxing on the shore side beaches. Atlantic Ocean. A day trip to Dry Tortugas National Park (Fort Jefferson) departs daily from Key West.
Above all, the people-watching, climate, and laid-back atmosphere attract people young and old to the Republic of Conch. It attracts you too.
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