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Chinlone, Burma’s Most Popular Sport

Tock, tock, tock; Anyone who has been to or lives in Burma knows that characteristic hollow rattling sound of a small ball when hit in what is arguably Burma’s most popular ball game and played here for 1,500 years: Chinlone. It is played with a ball with a diameter of about 14 centimeters and 12 pentagonal holes.

Wein-kat is the team version of chinlone and the solo version played only by women is called tapandaing. Chinlone, which means cane ball in Burmese, is played with exactly that: a woven rattan ball, and has its roots in tzu chu also called cuju, an ancient Chinese game.

A team of six players passes the light wicker ball between them with their feet, knees, shoulders and head while moving around in a circle. A player goes to the center to take the solo part, creating a dance of various moves seamlessly chained together. The soloist is supported by the other players who try to return the ball to him with a kick. There must also be a high level of harmony between the players to prevent them from getting in each other’s way. When the ball falls to the ground, it is dead and the game must start over.

It is a football game played around the world that varies only slightly. In Singapore and Indonesia similar games are called sipa, in Thailand takraw, in Malaysia sepak raga, in Vietnam da cau, in Laos kator and in Japan kemari; The South American stylistic relatives are batey and pok-ta-pok, to give you a few examples.

It is played by young and old, mostly men but also women, virtually anytime and anywhere in the country. It is a sport of harmony and unity which is an integral part of all pagoda festivals. Every year in Tabodwe (February), when Mahamuni Pagoda Festival in Mandalay is celebrated, hundreds of chinlone teams from all over the country gather here in their biggest festival to perform chinlone at its best.

Basically any dry, flat surface is suitable for chinlone, but the most ideal is a circle 22 feet/6.7 meters in diameter made of dry, heavily compressed earth. This results in a hard yet springy and soft chinlone yard.

At the Pagoda Festival in Mandalay, live music from traditional Burmese bands sets the tone for both the style and rhythm of the players as moderators entertain viewers with amusing commentary and call out the names of the chinlone players’ moves. These moves and ways of hitting the rattan ball – around 200 of these moves have developed over time – are a mixture of Burmese dance and martial art moves; quite a few of them being downright artistic. The most difficult of these are performed behind the player’s back where he cannot see the ball he is to kick. Mastering these kicks requires many hours of intensive training.

Accurate execution of chinlone kicks and correct body postures are of utmost importance. Each movement corresponds to a correct and clearly defined way of positioning the upper body, head, hands, arms and legs and a correct game allows six points of contact of the body with the ball, namely the ‘chay pya’ (tips of the toes), the ‘chay myet’ and the ‘chay pha myet’ (outer and inner sides of the feet), the ‘chay pha naunt’ (heels), the ‘chay phawa’ (plants) and the ‘du’ (knees). However, to stop the high-flying ball and place it on the foot, the ‘pakon’ (shoulders), ‘mai ci’ (chin) and ‘yin bat’ (chest) are also used.

Chinlone being a fundamentally non-competitive ball game, it is played within a team, is very demanding and requires maximum concentration from each of the players. They must, with and without playing the ball, remain extremely focused throughout the game; a state of mind called jhana. Here it’s not about winning or losing against a competing team, but about grace and aesthetics. The object of the game is to keep the cane ball in the air by passing it with a graceful kick from player to player within a team of six players positioned in a ring. Thus, a game of chinlone is judged by the style and grace in which a team performs.

There is also a competitive relative of the chinlone which is played by two opposing teams on a net. This game is called sepak takraw and it originated in Malaysia where it was developed in the 1940s. But in Burma, this game of direct competition in which one team wins and the other loses is not as popular as the chinlone.

Chinlone or similar games are played in many countries, but I think it is no exaggeration to say that there is hardly any country in which an extraordinary level of gaming skills like that of Burma is hit.

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